Breakfast should begin somewhere storied, and A Brasileira is just that — Lisbon’s oldest café, opened in 1905, and still gleaming with Belle Époque grandeur. Yes, it can be touristy, but step inside and the interiors tell a different story: burnished brass, dark wood panelling, mirrored walls, and the soft clatter of saucers that hasn’t changed for a century. Order a strong bica and a warm torrada or a simple pastry, settle beneath the chandeliers, and watch Chiado slowly come alive outside its doors.
From Chiado, wander down into the Baixa, where wide, geometric streets open towards the river. Pause in Praça do Comércio, its yellow arcades bright in the morning light, before veering into the Alfama, Lisbon’s most ancient and atmospheric quarter. Here, time feels slower: narrow alleys twist past tiny bars, tiled shrines and locals greeting one another from balconies. Make your way up to the Miradouro de Santa Luzia, where vines spill over white arches and the view unfurls across red rooftops and the shimmering Tagus.
Lunch should be unfussy and unmistakably local. Head to Zé da Mouraria, a beloved canteen known for its bacalhau dishes and hearty portions. It’s the sort of place where the tables are close, the chatter is warm, and everything arrives fresh, simple and deeply satisfying.
Afterwards, give yourself an afternoon devoted to Lisbon’s quieter creative side. Stroll towards the Santos and Lapa neighbourhoods, where tile workshops, design studios and small galleries nestle behind pale façades. Stop into Fábrica Sant’Anna, where artisans hand-paint azulejos in cobalt and emerald, each tile slightly different from the next. Then wander to Claus Porto’s flagship boutique — part apothecary, part design studio — where you can create a scent inspired by Portuguese botanicals: orange blossom, cedarwood, aromatic herbs carried in from the hills.
As the shadows lengthen, make your way up to the Miradouro da Senhora do Monte. The climb is worth the reward: a sweeping panorama across the castle, the rooftops, the river and the distant bridge glowing in the late sun. When the city turns golden, head down to Principe Real for a pre-dinner drink at Pavilhão Chinês, an eclectic spot where cocktails are served amid cabinets of curios and vintage collections.
For dinner, book ahead at Taberna da Rua das Flores, a small, ever-buzzing favourite in Chiado. The menu changes often, leaning into seasonal ingredients and thoughtful twists on Portuguese classics — grilled fish, bright citrus, fresh herbs, dishes meant for sharing and lingering.
