In Conversation with Cheffe Chiara Pavan, Our Venice Insider

Sustainable cuisine in Venice, on the small island of Mazzorbo

Today, we're chatting with one of our Venetian inspirations: Cheffe Chiara Pavan, whose culinary philosophy embraces a sustainable ethos. Alongside Chef Francesco Brutto, she has been at Venissa Ristorante since 2017 dishing up extraordinary dishes that speak of the environment and surrounding territory. One of the most remarkable ingredients she works with is the blue crab, an invasive species threatening the delicate ecosystem by preying on smaller fish to the point of extinction. By incorporating it into her menus, she turns a challenge into an opportunity, creating innovative dishes with an ecological purpose. Beyond this, her cuisine places a strong emphasis on vegetables, grown on the island, ensuring a commitment to seasonality and locality. 

In Conversation with Cheffe Chiara Pavan, Our Venice Insider

1. What initially drew you to Venice in 2017? 

Eight years ago they asked me to manage the kitchen here alongside Chef Francesco, and  so I did! I found it interesting and stimulating, and I started receiving awards for my work, so I was motivated to continue my research in this environment.  

2. How has the island changed since then? 

Venice is a hotspot for climate change, there's an invasion of blue crabs and the fish we used  to find in the lagoon are no longer there. In the last 7/8 years, I've seen big changes due to  rising sea levels - with big floods, the one in November 2019 was exceptional. Then, of course, there's the question of biodiversity loss due to pollution and fishing, and that's why we started using invasive species in our dishes.  

3. Define the cuisine at Venissa in one sentence 

Francesco and I started calling it environmental cuisine because we are describing an environment through our dishes, and at the same time taking care of it by making sustainable choices.  

4. Your restaurant is located on the small island of Mazzorbo, what attracted you to work on such a remote, bite-sized place? 

The lagoon of Venice is an incredible and complicated place. It invites you to adapt to its rhythms and is truly a constant source of inspiration. 

5. What ingredients can you source from the island? 

We grow our own vegetables in our kitchen gardens, then we buy fish from local fishermen, only those that are in abundance at the time. We are always gathering information through  researchers - for example, I have my trusted friends who are biologists and fishermen (we  have built up a solid network), but we also keep ourselves informed by reading and studying - to discover and monitor what species are in the lagoon and the upper Adriatic. 

6. Your cuisine is primarily focused on vegetables - why did you and Francesco make this choice? Does it connect with your sustainable philosophy? 

We've chosen to create menus that are mainly plant-based, and we don't use a lot of dairy  products. Going meatless was a decision we made four years ago and we use a small amount of fish as mentioned above. We are always on the lookout and it is a dynamic and ongoing process. 

7. What does sustainable cuisine mean to you? 

Sustainable also means focusing on zero waste, always keeping an eye on what would  normally be thrown away. For example, with the bread we don't eat, we make flour that we reuse. We use parts of the blue crab, such as the head and the humours, which are not usually taken into account. With the unsold croissant from the breakfast at the Wine Resort, we make a delicious cake. We also work a lot with preserves and we make stock for the winter season. And so on...  

8. What steps do you take to promote sustainability and environmental consciousness in the kitchen? 

As I said, we are very aware of waste, so we start by sensitising all the team. It is very important for us to share these values, and it is at the very base of our work.  

To discover Cheffe Chiara Pavan’s favourite places in Venice, shop our guide here.