Breakfast calls for something traditional: wander to Café Paszkowski, the storied belle époque café in Piazza della Repubblica where Florentine intellectuals once gathered over espresso and jazz. Order a cappuccino and a warm cornetto, claim a spot on the terrace, and watch the city awaken — waiters in white jackets gliding between tables, the carousel turning lazily in the square.
From here, stroll south into the Oltrarno, crossing Ponte Vecchio, the emblem of Firenze. As you delve deep into the city’s bohemian heart, you’ll notice that life still moves at the rhythm of a craftsman’s hands. Climb up through the Bardini Gardens, smaller and quieter than the Boboli, with its wisteria-draped pergolas and cinematic views of the Duomo. On the way back down, make time for the Museo Stefano Bardini, a hidden treasure chest of classical fragments, faded frescos, and antique sculptures.
Lunch should be unhurried and timeless. Slip into Trattoria Cammillo, a Florentine institution where white tablecloths and wood-panelled walls set the scene for silky tagliatelle with ragù and fried artichokes crisped to perfection. It is also said that the Pollo al Curry is a must-order.
The afternoon belongs to the artisans. Wander the backstreets of the Oltrarno, where doors open into Galleria Romanelli, a living sculpture studio, or L’Ippogrifo Stampe d’Arte, where the ancient craft of engraving lives on. It’s now time to slip in an experience and what better way than to create your own, signature scent? At Profumoir, a small atelier in San Niccolò, you can blend your own perfume with a selection of rare raw materials from the archives— from citrus and spices to woods, florals, and resins.
As the sun begins to set, climb up to Piazzale Michelangelo. It’s a classic view, yes, but there’s magic in seeing Florence unfurl beneath you in the burnished light: the river catching fire, the bells of Santa Croce tolling in the distance. When the sky deepens into rose and violet, make your way down for aperitivo at Saporium Lounge, where cocktails are meticulously crafted following the farm-to-table philosophy of Borgo Santo Pietro.
For dinner, make sure you book in advance a table at Il Santo Bevitore, one of the city’s most beloved restaurants. The lighting is low, the chatter warm, and the menu a modern ode to tradition: wild boar pappardelle, buttery burrata, and just enough decadence to linger over another glass.
